Fishmonger-chef brings smiles to devoted patrons

Perusing the handwritten menu of prized fish such as nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), kinki (thornyhead), and white sea bream sets mouths watering at this celebrated seafood spot. Owner Shintaro Maeda is a triple talent: chef, market broker, and fishmonger extraordinaire. “It all started with learning to fillet fish,” he says of his non-stop days. After market deliveries, he preps for evening service, crafting both simple classics and French-inspired creations. Standouts include zesty fruit in lemon-infused vinegar miso and croquettes featuring rare cuts from famed Omi beef purveyor “Sakaeya.” Don’t miss the Inca no Mezame (a specialty potato variety) and premium beef croquette (presented in the photo, for ¥1000), a symphony of crispy kadaif (fine, thread-like pastry), potato sweetness, and savory meat. Each dish leaves diners satisfied, enticing regulars to return with beaming smiles.